Sprocket Restoration

This is what I started with - the typically dirty, corroded sprocket and drive flange, oil seal and bearing, plus bolts and the "tongued washers" used to keep the bolts secure (see diagram below - diagram courtesy cmsnl.com).

Let me tell you, it's no fun attempting to remove the sprocket bolts.  There is no clearance between the backside of the bolt where it butts up against the part of the drive flange that protrudes through the sprocket.  You have to use a 14 mm open-end wrench and carefully work the bolts loose (after folding the tongued parts of the keeper washers flat).  I managed to get three of the four bolts off, but I rounded the fourth bolt head.  I ended up slotting the head with a Dremel tool to turn it into a "screw" head and I then took it off with a large screw driver and vise-grips.

Here's the restored sprocket and driven flange.  I swapped sprockets (for one with 100% good teeth) then powder coated the donor sprocket, cleaned the driven flange hub, and installed a new oil seal and bearing,  I also replaced all of the sprocket bolts and the sprocket tongued washers (note, I haven't bent the washer tongues up yet).  I know the sprocket isn't painted on the original (it's raw metal), but what the heck - the powder coat looks great and is an easy way to clean up the sprocket!  I've used this trick in the past and it works fine.  

While I was at it, I mounted a new tire on my "semi-restored"
 front wheel (it needs new bearings). It came out looking fairly decent (no dings!).

I rounded up the final batch of parts for re-chroming so I can finish the Red Sl90.  I decided to throw in my last tail light/license plate assembly to see how it comes out.  The other parts are the handlebars, exhaust heat shield and the exhaust mounting bracket.  In the meantime, I'm polishing up the exhaust pipe and muffler...